Cleaning and Maintaining Leather Shoes

Finished smooth leather retains its appearance when dirt is brushed away, moisture is allowed to escape between wearings, and a small quantity of suitable cream is applied before the surface dries or cracks. Suede, nubuck, patent leather, and specialist finishes require their own methods.

A sound pair of leather shoes, properly maintained, may last for many years and can be repaired several times. The initial expense is therefore better judged across the life of the shoe than against a cheaper pair which must soon be replaced.

One was trained to a standard in which boots were brushed and polished daily, beginning as early as six in the morning. In a well-run household, this was among the first tasks attended to, and even in modest homes where no one else would do it for you, a man’s boots were expected to be clean before he left the house. The matter was not negotiable; it was simply what one did, in the same way that one washed one’s face or combed one’s hair. Weekly attention is the modern compromise, and I will accept it. But you should know that it is a compromise.

Remove the laces and brush away dust with a horsehair brush, paying attention to the welt and the creases beside the tongue. Use firm strokes; the object is to lift the dirt rather than distribute it more evenly.

For an ordinary clean, brushing and a slightly damp cloth may be enough. Where cleaner or saddle soap is required, check the maker’s instructions and test a hidden area first. Use a small amount, wipe away the excess, and allow the shoes to dry naturally, away from radiators, hairdryers, and direct sunlight.

Once dry, apply a thin layer of cream or polish matching the leather, work it in with a cloth or soft brush, and leave it for ten minutes. A heavy application produces sticky residue and attracts dust; the shine comes later from buffing, not from the depth of polish laid upon the surface.

Buff with a clean brush or soft cloth, using quick, light strokes until the surface has an even sheen.

Use well-fitting shoe trees between wearings where the construction permits it. Cedar is traditional and may help with odour, while the chief service of any suitable tree is to support the shape as the leather dries.

Avoid wearing the same pair on consecutive days, particularly in wet weather, because leather needs time to dry. Two pairs used in alternation usually last considerably longer than one worn every day, quite apart from the improvement in comfort.