Beard Care

The transition from the heavy, somewhat overbearing hirsuteness of the mid-Victorian years to the neater grooming of my own era owed much to the barber. The influence of His Majesty King Edward VII, and of the Duke of York who would become King George V, was considerable in this regard. The well-groomed moustache, often waxed and precisely maintained, suited the high, stiff collars and frock coats of the period. It required attention, which is usually where the trouble begins.

The modern gentleman may possess an array of oils and balms which would baffle a Sheffield barber, while giving rather less thought to the outline of the beard itself. My own preference remains the clean-shaven jaw, but a personal preference is not a household law, and a beard which suits the face and is properly maintained may look very well.

Your era has developed an unusual appetite for beard oils, and one suspects many men are purchasing solutions to problems they do not have. Oil cannot replace washing, trimming, or attention to the skin beneath the hair. Wash the face and beard daily with a mild facial cleanser; ordinary bar soap and hair shampoo often leave facial skin dry or irritated.

A beard is not completed merely by ceasing to shave. Choose a length, maintain it with regular trimming, and attend particularly to the lines at the cheek and neck, since these are what distinguish an intended beard from the gradual accumulation of hair.

Deliberately maintained stubble may suit a younger face, though it retains the appearance of a missed morning’s shave and requires almost as much attention as a short beard. If it is kept, its length and edges must be treated as deliberately as any other style.

Wash the beard without scrubbing the skin beneath it raw, pat it dry, and apply a plain moisturiser to the skin. Oil or beard conditioner may help coarse or dry hair, though neither is required by a short comfortable beard.

Acne, persistent flaking, tender ingrown hairs, or an itch which survives ordinary care is a skin complaint. More combing will not settle it. Part the beard occasionally to inspect the skin. A sore, lump, or changing mark concealed by hair deserves the same attention it would receive upon a clean-shaven face.

Further guidance

• A dermatologist’s top tips for a healthy beard, American Academy of Dermatology
• Common beard problems, American Academy of Dermatology